Before we moved to Switzerland, Mr H and I were both told from several different people how amazing Les Diablerets ski area was and how lucky we were to be moving an hour down the road from it. We had never heard of it but were keen to try anything ski-related a short drive from home. For years, I had long dreamed of skiing in Switzerland but the price and two small children held me back. The places I knew about were either overwhelmingly large, like Zermatt, or pricey, such as Gstaad or St. Moritz. While I have nothing against these places and actually plan on visiting all of them soon, I wasn’t sure about taking a husband that couldn’t ski and two very young children to massive resorts if there was a risk that all of them were just going to turn around and say they hated it.
So, we took advantage of a Mr H’s family’s place and skied on the French side of the Alps. We were newcomers to Switzerland except having skied once in the Jura together. The Swiss Alps were uncharted territory for us and we are very aware of how fortunate we are to have the ability to explore as much as we can during our first ski season here.
Points Forts/The Good Stuff:
Located in the french-speaking canton of Vaud, Les Diablerets is easily accessible by motorway, running about 95 minutes from the Geneva airport. If you are without a vehicle, there are multiple daily trains that will to get you to the slopes in the most efficient manner possible. The train station is in the centre of town with connecting buses immediately outside. The timetables were very clear and easy to understand. From the train station, if you are staying in town, you should be able to walk to your accommodating within 5-10 minutes. If you are day-tripping on the train to ski, the local free bus/navette stops outside the train station to take you to the departure point of your choice. Les Diablerets is both a summer and winter destination with lots of activities to offer everyone in your group!
What to do? If you want to get active, this is the area for you!
- skiing/snowboarding (children under 9 are free)
- ski school (multilingual)
- tobogganing/sledding (with the famous 7KM Sledge Run)
- cross-country skiing
- Avalanche training centre
- rock climbing
- VTT/Mountain biking
- outdoor swimming (summer only)
- white water rafting
- Nordic walking
- Tissot Peak to Peak walk (107metre long suspension bridge at 3000m/10 000ft altitude – accessible via Glacier 3000)
Hitting the slopes:
Admittedly, the Alps are having a rough season. The snow and weather have been somewhat unpredictable and this is frustrating for both business-owners in the mountains and those of us keen to spend a day in the snow. Luckily for Les Diablerets, they are so well-situated that snow is never more than 10 minutes away. Uniquely positioned in the Alps, skiers/boarders at Les Diablerets have their choice between 3 ski stations in the immediate surrounding area.
For beginners/families still learning:
Isenau offers the best choices for the whole family. Accessed from the town of Les Diablerets via a gondola/télécabine, Isenau offers a well-groomed ski area with the majority of the runs rated at blue (easy) level. There is a large red that our family really enjoyed and one short black for a bit of a challenge but on the whole, if you are with someone still learning, this is the place you want to be.
Meilleret, offering primarily red and blue runs, offers a more challenging terrain for skiers and snowboarders. We did ski one day there with our kids in tow (5 and 8 years old) and they enjoyed it. I would say if your kids are nervous skiers or have less than 2 years experience, stick to the Isenau side for now. Meilleret also offers a connection to the Villars ski area via connecting pistes.
For everyone and days when the snow is light down below:
Quickly becoming one of my favourite ski areas, Glacier 3000 is a short 10 minute drive/bus ride from Les Diablerets. Reaching a peak of 3000m/10 000ft, Glacier 3000 guarantees snow from late October to May. The conditions are beautiful and the views are out of this world! While Glacier 3000 is open to all levels of skiers, I would suggest that everyone going there on their own accord have at least skied before. The very first drop down can be overwhelming for a beginner and we have seen families yelling at each other things like ‘just get through this part and you’ll be fine’. Never a fun way to start a day!! Professional ski instructors are able to run beginner lessons up on Glacier 3000 helping newcomers to the sport descend via the chairlift and begin on the easier slopes below. Once on the glacier, the options are endless. For those looking for a challenge, the 7KM long black piste Olden offers a spectacular view of the mountains while making you put your skills to the test. Please don’t attempt this piste if you are NOT yet experienced on black runs. You’ve been warned.
Please note: Glacier 3000 is situated on a very high and exposed mountain top. Conditions vary and if it is foggy or too windy, they will shut down the lifts. Please check their website in the morning to see if they are operational that day. They make this call by 8:15am daily. You are welcome for this well-learned tip lol.
A note on high altitude skiing:
While the 3000m/10 000ft that Glacier 3000 operates from might not affect a large portion of the population, do not doubt that this is indeed high altitude and within the range where humans are affected by the lack of oxygen in the air and can experience AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness. Don’t let the name fool you, AMS is SERIOUS and potentially deadly. Please take a moment before attempting to ski at this height and learn about what to look out for. There is no rhyme or reason to altitude sickness and if you were fine one time it does NOT mean you will be fine every time. I am often in high altitudes and once during a ski trip to Glacier 3000 I had to come down mid-lunch (altitude 3050m). I was weird and I knew something was wrong. By the time I descended to the parking lot I was better. I hate skipping out on skiing but it was the right choice that day.
Points to consider:
Due to its popularity, Les Diablerets runs a low vacancy rate on local hotels and apartment rentals. The best time to book is 6-8 months in advance. Luckily, a lot of places won’t make you pay for the whole trip in advance which helps with budgeting and vacation planning. Some local hotels offer coupons or discounts towards local ski lift tickets (remember, under 9s are free) so check with your accommodation choice before purchasing tickets to see if that is available for you.
Parking. The best location for parking is at Glacier 3000. A vast parking lot with controllers helping those that find parking ‘challenging’ keeps everything organised and running smoothly. Glacier 3000 experiences a LOT of day-trippers yet we have never had a problem parking at the glacier. In town, there is extremely limited parking at the Isenau departure. I suggest either taking the free local bus/navette or doing the drop-off and park further. This inconveniences one person in your group but my husband and I chose this method to help with the kids. We didn’t stay far from the Isenau domain but the steep climb plus icy terrain made us both decide it was a better route for us to take. Meilleret has much better parking approximately 200-300 meters from the departure point.
Restaurants. Unfortunately we have not tried nearly as many as we are tempted by! We can say that the restaurant at our hotel, Auberge de la Poste, was incredible. It was perpetually packed with both a mix of locals (always a good sign) and tourists a like. The staff were constantly turning people away and overheard informing them to make a reservation next time. They offer traditional Swiss mountain cuisine (i.e. fondue, charbonnade, steak tartare, etc) but also many other seasonal options. The kid’s menu was vast and my juniors were pretty happy. Also worth mentioning, we did have a wonderful lunch of raclette up on Glacier 3000 at Botta Restaurant. Located at the main télécabine/gondola terminal at Scex Rouge, the views are stunning and after a chilly day of skiing, you simply cannot go wrong with hot melted cheese!!
Nightlife. Mr H and I are no longer in the age bracket were ‘après ski’ is something we look for in a ski town. Painful as that is to admit, it is just the honest to goodness truth. Good food and fine wine are more ‘our thing’ yet even we were tempted on a pre-dinner stroll through town to check out L’Ormonan Café Apéro Bar. The heaters were on, the music was awesome and the place was absolutely packed by 5pm on a Saturday. It reminded me of younger ski trips before children 😉 The kids loved the music and danced while we indulged in a post-ski beer. It was a very fun way to kick off the evening and I highly recommend checking it out.
As you can see, Les Diablerets has something to offer everyone. We thoroughly enjoyed our weekend in the Alps and look forward to returning as soon as we can.
Photos: Jennifer Hart